Shoe machine



Nov. 6, 1945. F. AsHwoRTH SHOE MACHINE Filed Aug. 25, 1945 Sheets-Sheet 1 Nov. 6, 1945. F. ASHWORTH SHOEMAQCHVINE Filed Aug. 25, 1943 s Sheets-Sheet 2 F. ASHWORTH SHOE MACHINE Nov. 6, 1945.

Filed Aug. 25, 1943 5 Sheets-Shet 4 fled Arlen arm v ASHYVORTH SHOE MACHINE Aug 25' 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented Nov. 6, 1945 UNITED "STATES PATENT; OFFICE I 2,338,244 e I I SHOE MACHINE Fred Ashworth, .Wenham, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation,'Flcmington, N. J., a corporation of Ncw Jersey Application August 25, 1943, Serial No. 499,951 I 33 Claims. (01.112 46) The present invention relates generally tosewing or other similar machines more particularly of the type for operating upon shoes and is herein disclosed as embodied in a machine arranged for use in the manufacture of stitchdown shoes in whicha Welt i sewed to the outturned upper and projecting margin of an outsole while the parts pretsented to the machine are supported upon a An important object of the invention is to avoid Waste of welt and loss of time in operating the machine and to enable shoes oftthe stitchdown type to be sewed without the necessit of careful attention or exercise of particular skill on the part ofthe operator.

Another object is to avoid the necessity of performing a separate welt trimming operation .on

such ashoe after the sewingoperation'is com- 'pleted andto secure accurate positioning of the .welt end-on the outtumed upper of an unsewed shoe when a new sewing operation is to be started.

Previous attempts to relieve the operator of the necessity of careful attention and exercise of particular skill while sewing the welt to stitchdown shoes in order to prevent waste in welt have been directed toward the provision in a sewing machine of a knife for severing the welt ata location withn a guide for the welt close to the point ofsewmg operations. While severing the welt within the guide is of some benefit, it still requires some effort and skill on the part of the operator to estimate in advance the. amount of weltrequired infinishingaseam.

As will appear more fully hereinafter, the principal feature of the present invention is embodied in a sewing machine having a Welt cutting knife mounted for operation on a portion of the welt while inactual sewing position on the outturned shoe upper, thus enabling the Welt to be severed at a location so close to the sewing point that no special effort is required of the operator in esti mating the length of welt required in finishing a seam and no. separate trimming operation is needed after the shoe is removed from the machine. Preferably, the welt is cut by the knife at a location a fraction of a stitch length ahead of. the sewing point. In this way, the final stitch of a seam will maintain the severed end of the welt securely in position on the shoe. To insure cutting at the proper time without stoppingthe machine, the machine is provided with a. driving and stopping mechanism which actuates the knife automatically in' the manner referred to and causes the machine to be brought to rest immediately thereafter. As a means for simplifying the operation still further, suitable clamping mean is provided and actuated to grip the welt when the machine isrbrought to restso that, in case the knife does not cut off the welt completely, a pull on the .welt while the operator is removing the shoe from the machine will act .to'sever'. the endsatthecut. i M

-In{ one form of this feature of the invention, the knife is arranged so that itwill notcut the welt entirely through, When thus operated, the unsevered section of the welt acts ,to withdraw the cut portion past the sewing point in. the machine when the shoe-is removed, the welt clamp- ,ingvmean limiting. the amount of withdrawal to the ekactlength requiredin starting a new seam. While this feature is particularly useful in machines for. sewing welt to stitchdownshoes, the arrangement is also applicable. to advantage in other typesof sewing machines and in other machin'esin which awelt is attached to a work piece by means other than stitches. H I

As illustrated, he welt clamping means is constructed to yield a predetermined length of well; before causing the welt to be severed, which length ofweltis regulated to permit thelcut section to be carried, during themovement of the shoepast the attaching point of the machine, to a positionwherethe. end remaining in. the machine after severing will project sufilciently to enable attachment with certainty to th work. and with the end of welt overlappingltheattaching point of the machine in starting a newoperation. When applied toa machine, for sewing a welt to the outturned upper of a stitchdownlshoe, it is desirable to avoid severing the welt the middle of a seam when it is necessary to bring themachine to rest on account of thread breakage or other "causes. Accordingly, the invention .con templates theprovision of a safety device constructed and arranged to be tripped by the operator of the machine just before the end' of the seam is reached, which device will prevent the operation of the welt cutting. knife at all times other than at the end of the seam. Incertain cases, however, such a safety device may bedispensedwith since the out in the welt, unless the welt is completely'severed, will not be'detrimental to the appearance of a shoe particularlyif a, stitch islaid vacross the cut to forma continuous seam. This result canbe obtained, when it is desired to stop the sewing operations betweenthe end of a stitchdownseam, if, after the machine has been br'oughtto rest, it is restarted without removing theshoep. H I.

1 These and other .featuresof the invention con:

, ber of the welt clamp; k Fig. 15 is a view, on an enlarged scale, looking sist in the novel and improved devices, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which will readily be understood from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings illustrating one embodiment of the invention.

In the drawings; I f r, Fig. liisa'vie nfront elevation ofnthe upper part of a machine embodying the present in vention;

Fig. 2 is a view in perspective of a welt cutting knife employed in the machine of Fig. 1;

Fig. 2551s a sectional-view of theLsame portions of the shoe after the final stitch has been in- 1 serted;

. Fig. 26 is a sectional view of the same portions of "the shoe, illustrating the positions of the end Fig. 3 is a detail view in right side elevation of certain portions of themachinebtFig;1,'

shown partly in section, illustrating'the'mechanism. for controlling the operation of the welt cutting knife and welt clamp;

Fig. 4 is a detail plan view of the knife, welt guide and actuating lever;

Fig. 5is a view in front elevation of the knife and its actuating lever; Fig. 6 is a plan view of ide 0 Fig. 7 is a view inside elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 6

Fig. 8 is a sectional view in front elevation of the welt clamp and the welt clamp, indicating the positions'of the clamp pjartsduring'sewing operations; I

Fig. 9 is a similar view of the clamp with the partsin weltgripping positions at the end of a seam; Fig. 10 is a similar view of the .welt clamp after the shoe'has been withdrawn from the machine and the welt completelysevered at its point of attachment to .the shoe; j

Fig. 11 is a sectional view, taken along the line XI'.XI,of Fig.7; v i r Fig, 12' is a detail view of the supportv for the welt clamp and a clamp. latching plunger for preventing retraction of the welt after being withdrawn andsevered;

, Fig. 13 is a detail view of the carrier for the welt clamp;

Fig. 14 is a detail inrthe direction of the arrow in Fig. 3, of a portion of the .welt cutter actuating mechanism;

Fig. 16 is a viewin front elevation of the parts illustrated in Fig.

Fig. 17 is a sectional view, taken along the line XVII'XVII of Fig, 16,, illustrating the inoperativepositions of the parts; 7

Fig. 18 is a sectional view, taken along the view of the' movable'mem- J of welt remainingin the machine and after being qsevere'dfro'm the."shoe, and of the thread after "being trimmed manually by the operator;

Fig. 2'7 is a similar sectional view, illustrating the position of a new shoe in relation to the welt end remaining in the machine in starting a new seam; w v V 'Fig.v28 is a perspective view of the welt, illustratingthe nature of the cut formed by the knife; and

' Fig; 29 is a similar view, partly broken away,

illustrating the relation ofthe cut ends of the welt'after being severed at the, completion of a seam by withdrawing the shoe from thev machine.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is an outsole shoe sewing machine constructed and arranged to insert a lockstitchoutseam in a shoe and is similar, except ashereinafter described,

to the machinef disclosed in United States Letters nism after the welt knife mechanism has operv ated and is thereafter rendered inoperative;

r Fig. 21. is a perspectiveview, partly broken away, of a stitchdown shoe afterbeing sewed on the illustrated machine;

' Fig.- 22 is a similar view, on an enlarged scale, illustrating themethod of operation of the welt cuttingknife; V v I Fig. 23 is a-sectional view, on. a further enlarged scale, of the projecting marginal porfront of the machine at the end of an outseam Patent No.. 2,271,611, grantedFebruary 3, 1942, upon an application filed in the names of Fred Ashworth and Carl F. Whitaker, to which reference may be had for a more complete explanation of theconstruction andmanner of operation of the stitch. forming devices'and their actuating mechanisms.

The features of. the invention embodied in the present machine are intended particularly to facilitateand simplify the. application and attachment of a welt toa stitchdown shoe, such as illustrated in Fig. 21 of the drawings, provided with an upper 2, an insole 4, an outsole 6 and a finish welt 8. The purpose of the welt 8 is to reinforce the outseam, indicat'edtat l0,.connect- 'ingthe outflanged marginal. portions of the upper 2 the insolefland the outsole B and to impart a pleasing appearance to the completed. shoe. In attaching thewelt, the outseam usually. is-started at a point, indicated at H, along the inside edge ofthe shank in a shoe and is continued about the shoe until the same position is reached upon return of the shoe to the beginning of the seam. The usual practice is to provide the end of the welt first applied toQthe shoe with a bevel cut across the welt and, upon completion of the seam, to sever the welt at the proper location with a second bevel cut I the surface of which will register with the surface of the-bevel cut at the end first applied tothe shoe, thus forming a smooth, finished joint in the welt. In regular commercial .work, the welt is cut by hand either after the seam is completed or by stopping the sewing operations a suitable distance away from the end of the seam to provide space for cutting the welt so that its end surfaces will register with each other. It is then necessary to insert additional stitches to complete the seam. In either manner of formingthe seam and cutting the welt, particular attention and skill must be exercised by ,the operator to avoid loss of. time as well as damage to the shoe. c

Automatic, or semiautomatically actuated, welt cutting knives have been provided in sewing machines acting within a welt guide at a distance from the isewing point on the shoe to: form a smooth joint between the ends first attached and last attached to the shoe. While such knives are effective forthe purpose intended, they necessitate careful observation not only :of the point of sewing operations in the machine but also of the approach of the first end of welt applied to the shoe, sufficiently in advance of the position at which the welt cutting knife should be actuated. If'the distance betweenthe advancing end of the welt first applied to the shoe and the'sewing point is shorter than the distance between the sewing point and thewelt cutting knife, the bevel surfacesat the endsof the welt cannot be brought into accurate register. Ifthe distance between the advancing welt and on the shoe 'is too short, the endsevered by the cutting knife will overlap theend on the shoe, thus causing an irregular appearance. r

"'Io avoidthe'se difiiculties in the present machlne,a welt cutting knife I2 is provided, acting directly on the shoe at a location within a fractionrofa stitch length ahead of thesewing point. when solocated, the full attention of the operator may be concentrated at the sewing point and, as soon. as the advancing, leading end of thewelti on the shoe approaches to within a stitch length of the sewing point, the welt cuttingknife maybe actuated across the Welt with theresult that an accurate registration between the welt ends is produced and the seam'may be completed by: inserting an additional stitch securely attaching the final cut end of the welt. to'the shoe.

The. operation of the. knife H in cutting the welt and forming the joint between the. first and final'ends of'the welt is clearly illustrated in Figs; 22..to. 29; inclusive. The welt; after being applied and sewed nearly to the starting point II in the seam, is. acted upon by the knife which is disposed atan angle to the general plane of the shoe parts being operated upon. The welt is led against the projecting marginal portions of the shoe a direction generally paralleltothe plane .of :the knife, through a bend just before reaching the sewing point and intoithe plane-of the shoe parts. The knife H is arranged to cut the welt along the bend, acting with its sharpened edge I13. against the substance of the outflanged,

shoe upper as a cutting: block. By sosarranging the knife, thesharpened edge, when in active .,tions to a driving and: stopping mechanism for the machine so as to require attention on the partof the operator only sufiicient to observe the approaching end of welt already attached to the shoe as. it reaches the location one stitch in advance of the sewing point, the machine being stopped within a single sewing. cycle by the driving and stopping mechanism. 1

The stitch forming devices of the machine inelude a curved hook needle It, a curved awl 5,

a rotary shuttle for passing each loop of needle thread about a locking thread'case. I8, a looper .20 and other thread. handling, members actuated by simultaneously rotating sewing shafts 2| and iii-similar to those disclosed in the Ashworth and Whitaker patentabove mentioned. The shoe is clamped in the machine during sewingby a work support 23 and a presser foot 24, acting to.- gether alternately to clamp and feed the shoe. To direct the welt 8 into a position on the. outturned shoe upper in advance of the sewing point,.the work support 23 is provided with a welt guide 25- in the form of a slot in that edge ofthe work support first engaged by the advancing marginal portions of the shoe.

As illustrated in: Fig. 27, the shoe applied to the machine comprises only the lasted upper 1,

an insole 4, and the outsole 6 temporarily attached to the insole. When the unsewn shoe is applied to the work support, a. short length including; a bevel cut end of the welt 8. projects from the work support and comes into engagement with the outflanged margin of the shoe upper on the .Work support. As soon-as the machine is started, the partsare; clamped and a stitch is inserted through the bevel cut welt end first applied to the shoe, the welt being drawn through the guide with the shoe as the sewing. continues until the seam has nearlybeen completed. To insure the best results, the first bevel cut end of they welt sewed to the shoe is so located with respectto the sewing point that the first stitch of the seam will beinserted within astitch length of the bevel cut end. Whenthe operator observes theapproach of the advancing end of the welt first sewed to a position within a stitch length of the final end of the seam, the cutting knife is set into operation, one additional stitch is inserted and the machine is thereafter brought to rest.

The welt cutting and end beveling knife I! is best shown in Fig; 2 and consists of a thin elongated blade slidingly mounted at its upper end to move within the welt guide 25 parallel to the path taken by the welt as it is carried through the guide above the knife. To actuate the knife, the lower end is supported on a pivot 26 (see Figs. 3, 4 and 5-) carried by one arm of a bell crank rotatable about a downwardly extending screw 30 threaded at its upper end within a lug formed at the right-hand side of the work support 23. Another arm of the bell crank 28 is slotted to receive an angularly bent end of a link 32 loosely supported in an opening of a plate 34. fastened to the. frame of the machine. of the 'welt cuttinglknife, being guided beneath thewelt in the guide 25, acts against the bend of the welt between-the guide and the'shoe, in the manner outlined, whenever the bell crank 28= is rocked on its fulcrum stud. The sharpened edge ofthe welt cutting knife is held out of. engagement with the welt by a coil spring 36 surrounding the link 32 and pressing at one end against the plate 34 to draw the link rearwardly. Cooperating with the other end of the spring 36 is a bifurcated block 38- secured to the rearward end of the link 32, betweenv the bifurcations. of which block is-pivotallyconnected a downwardly extending arm on a yoke-shaped support 40 having downwardly extending lugs pivoted to swing on, a horizontal shaft 42' secured in the machine frame.

The support 40 is a part of the welt knife actu angles to the axis of the. shaft on which the sup- The upper end port 40 is pivoted.; To limit the rotation of the support 40 on the shaft 42, the downwardly exten'ding'arm of the supportv carries a set screw 45 engaging a'portion 'of the machine frame. One .arm of the follower lever has a rounded end formed to engage acam disk'4l secured to the sewing shaft 2 I. The disk is formed with a radial projection 48 for depressing the rounde'nded arm of the follower lever 44 when the lever is held in the path of the projection. When the follower lever is actuated by the projection 48, motion is transmitted through the support 40 and its downwardlyextending arm to actuate the knife against'the welt. After the projection 48 has actuated and passed the follower lever 44, the spring'36 withdraws the sharpened edge of the knife from the cut formed in the welt and returns the support and follower lever to their original positions. During "continued rotation of the latchrrom the follower lever, the lide'lflris raised againstthe force of .the spring 14 and is secured .to oneiivend of a flexible cable'lfi clamped within it by a screw 18. The flexible cable' lfi passes socket formed between yielding portions of the pivoted support 40 and secured. against the knife actuating cam disk, an axially inclined wedging surface 50, best shown in Figs. '-1' and 3, o

engages one side of the round ended arm on the follower lever 44t0sWing thelever on its fulcrum screw 46 moving the round ended arm-along the sewing shaft 2| clear'of the path of the projec tion 48, thus preventing a second operation of the welt cutting knife. a

*The follower lever 44 is yieldingly urged in a direction to bring its round 'end'ed arm into the path of the pro-jection' 48' on the cam disk 41. Surrounding the fulcrumscrew 46 is a" torsion spring 52 (best shown in Fig. 15) acting against a m 54 on the lever anda pin 56 on the pivoted formed 'witha downwardly extending lug between 1 which and the pivoted support is compressed 'ac'oil spring 62 for retaining the latch in engagement with the follower lever. -When the latch releases the follower lever, the to'rsion's'pring 52 swings the follower lever into the path of the pro- 'jection 48 to-cause actuation of the knife. 7

E'rJAt theend of a seam, the follower lever 44 is released fromthe latch 58 to set the knife actuating mechanism in readinessfor operation by connections with the driving and stopping mechanism of: the machine These connections in- :clude a flat-sided pin 64 projectingfrom one side of the latch 58,'-a three-armed hook member 66 rotatable on a pivot screw 58 carried by a vertically movable slide 10- confinedwithin a suitable guideway inthe'blockil on the pivoted support '40; The hook member is y'ieldingly urged to- .ward a position with its hooked lower end engaging the latch pin 64 through the action of a tension spring H connected between the hook member and an upstandingportion of the block -51; The lower end of theslide-Hl has a'threaded opening to-receivethe upper end of a guide screw 12 passing loosely through a passage of the pivoted; support 40. Surrounding the guide screw -12 between its lower headed end and'a'horizontal surface onthe support 40 is coiled a compression spring 14 for. retaining theslide 10 in its lowermost position where the hook member 66 may engagethe pin 64 in the latch-:58; Toirelease the sheath by a clamp bolt 82. The other end of the flexible cable I6 is connected to a block-84 (see Fig. 3) carried by a movable part of the driving and stopping 5,mechanism, the sheath 80 at its other end. also being held within a clamping fixture 86 on the machine frame... The arrangement of the hook member 66 ,is such that, when the fiexible'cable 16 moves within its sheath, the slide 10 is raised, and the hook member releases the latch from the follower lever 44, causing the welt cutting knife to :perform its operation. -As

.soon as the follower engaging latch'58 is disconnected from the follower,a horizontal arm of the hook member 66 is brought against a pin 88 (see Fig. 17) on the upstanding portion of the guide block 51 to disengage the hook member from the pin 64 on the latch 58 so that, after the welt-cutting knife has been actuated, the follower lever 44 will immediately .be relatched in its inoperative position.

In sewing about the forepart of ashoe, it may be necessary, to bring the machine to rest'as a result of thread breakage or improper adjust.-' ments in the stitch forming devices, and itis not desirable to cut the welt under such circumstances. To avoid. cutting the welt along the forepart of a shoe, the connections between the welt cutting knife actuating mechanism and the driving and stopping mechanism are disconnected after each actuation of the welt cutting'knife when the latchv58 is released from the hook member 66, as indicated in Figs. 19and 20. The hook 40 memberis retainedin disconnected relation with the pin 64 on the latch 58 by a manuallyactuated latch 90 pivoted on a screw 92 received in the guide block 51; The latch 90 has connected to it a spring 94 stretched between a pin on the latch and the pin 88 to draw the latch against an upstandingarmvof the'hook member and'to cause the hook member to belatched out of engagement with the follower engaging latch 58. By

reason of the manually actuated latch '90, the operation of the driving and stopping mechanism in bringing the machine to rest will prevent the knife actuating mechanism from causing the welt to be cut.

In order to actuate the connections between the driving-and stopping mechanism and the follower engaging latch 58; the manual latch 9|] is provided with a forwardly extending handle porwelt'will-be cut.

The driving and stopping mechanism of the illustrated machine is the same as disclosed in the Ashworth and Whitaker patent, above mentioned, and comprises a high-speed clutch 96 and a low-speed clutch 98 mounted on the sewing shaft 22. To engage the high-speed clutch 96 to drive the machine at high speed, a lever I00 acts on the clutch and is fulcrumed in the machine frame at I02. A downwardly extending treadlecontrolled rod I04 is arranged when depressed to shift the lever I toward clutch engaging position, When the treadle-controlled rod I04 is released, the high-speed clutch 96 is disengaged and the low-speed clutch 98 is automatically jgaged for a part of a sewing cycle to reduce the speed of the sewing shaft and to bring the ma? chine to rest with the stitchdorming device in predetermined stopping positions.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 3, the mechanism for engaging and disengaging the low-speed clutch 98 includes a vibrating lever I06 having a follower engaging a cam on the sewing shaft 22, a s ring.- pressed lock bolt I08 mounted to slide vertically in a horizontally movable carrier H0 toward and from the vibrating lever, a link H2 connect; ing the lock bolt with one arm of a lever H4, and a cam arm H6 engaging a roll on ,thelever H4 and having pivotally connected to it the upper end of the treadle rod H14. Whent'he treadle rod 1114 is depressed, the'lock .bolt I08 is Withdrawn from the vibrating member I06 to free the low-speed clutch 98 before the high-speed clutch 96 is engaged. At the end of a seam, when the treadle-controlled rod I04 is'rele'a'sed and raised, the spring-pressed lock bolt lug enses the vibrating lever I05 and enters a recess in the lever at a predetermined point the sewing cycle to throw the low-sp c utch nto operation and bring the machine to rest at a predetermined stopping position witht'he stitch forming devices and presser foot free of the Work, When the lock bolt enters the recess in the lever I05, the connections, including the cable'l6, also are shifted to throw the welt cutting knife mechanism into operation. The recess in the vibrating lever I06 comes into alinement with the 10d bolt I08 over so large apart of each sewing "cycle that there is a possibility that the welt knife may be actuated to cut the welt before thejnext to the last stitch of the seam is completed. Ac-

cordingly more than a single stitch may be formed in the welt beyond the cut or the operating parts may become damaged unless special provision is made to avoid such operation, x

In order to'insure actuation of the welt knife just before the final sewing cycle of the machine occurs, the lower end of the lock bolt has a rearward projection on which is pivoted a yieldingly actuated finger I I8 'disposed with its upper endin the path of movement of the vibrating lever [06;

During sewing, when the lock bolt I00" is withdrawn from the recess in the vibrating lever, the

finger H8 is held positivels beneath-the path of until the next to last' sewing cycle is completed.

Thereafter, the vibrating lever I06 will move clear of the finger H8, enabling the lock bolt to rise. Upon the return movement of the vibrating lever I06 the finger will be pressed out of'the'path of the vibrating member and the lock. bolt will enter the recess in the lever I06 to set the welt cutting knife in readiness for operation before the final sewing cycle is completed. 4 I a I .As has been stated, a yieldable welt clamp is provided to cause the end of the welt atthe cut formed by the knife to be severed when the completely sewed shoe is withdrawn from the machine. If the knife is actuated at the proper time, the final stitch inserted in the sho'e'passes having at its upper end anset flanged and recessed jaw portion formedito fitbetween flanges of a guid roll I22 for-the well; as it passes fr m the supply to the welt guide (see Figs. "6 to 14 inclusive), F om he guidero l, the welt pa ses nrstjto a stationaryguide tube I 24 the upper end of which projects t a position in close proximity to th w lt uide 25 in'the work s pport 23; Th welt clamp plate I20 is mount d upon a rotatable t'hshape'cl carrier I26 having a liatsided huh which ente s, he slo n he clamp plate to guide the clamp plate for slidin movement diametrically of the carrier. The welt guide roll I22 is rotatably supported on asleeve projecting from the hub of the carrier I26 through the central opening of which passes a shaft I21 rotatably'supporte d in amo ntin plate I28 and secured in. the carrier 26 which su oun s he mounting plate. The mounting. Plate I28 is mped t a support bracket I30. bolted on the frame of the machine, The plate, I28 (has an arcuate groove I32 cut inlts under side within w h fits an ar uat' p ojection of the bra ke I30. The center or the arcuate groove and pro. iection coincides with the center of he sh f o the plate I 8,the plate eing adi tabl lamp d to the bracket 39 by a bolt I3 passin th one an arcuate Slot in a flange of the bracket and into vthreaded'.eng'ag emerit with the plate, When the welt clamp plate I20 is moved downwardly on thecarrier I25 toward the center of the guide roll I22, its jfaw portion compresses the welt against the guide roll, there being a pair of pointed screws I36 the jaw portion of the plate 20 to bite into t e le h surface f the welt and grip it securely against lippage. When raised to move its jaw portion away from the roll I22, the plate I20 releases the welt so that it is free to pass overthe roll,

With the parts in the position 10f Fig. 8, the welt s free for movement toward the welt guide and the shoe during normal sewing operations. As soon as the driving and stopping mechanism is thrown into operation, the welt clamp plate .120 isactuated into the position of Fig. 9to grip the welt on the roll'flzz. When the shoe is freed from the machine at thefend of a seam and is being withdrawn by the operator, the welt clamp plate, together with theroll and. the carrier I26, is rotated by the movement of the "welt to the position of Fig, 10, thus enabling the cut in the welt, to be drawn past the sewing point ready for a new operation onfthe shoe, as illustrated in Fig. 26,. At the same time the well; is Severed at the cut, the ends of sewing thread attached to the shoeare trimmed by a suitable hand knife, indicated at I.38in Fig.26. j

T return the welt lamp plate I211 with the carrier I26 from the position of Fig, .10 to its starting position af r severing th welt, th fl n ed portion of the pla e ha a pin I411 to which is connectedv a spring I42 stretched between the pin and the machine f m Io prevent the bevel cut endiof the welt remaining in the machine fromxbeingretraoted from the welt guide when the clamp plate isreturned to its starti g" position after the welt end is. completelysevered from the shoe,;the flanged portion of the clamp plate is formed with a slot I44 into whichenters the upper end of a plunger I45, the lower end of which is pressed by a spring I48. The'plunger I46 is 'slidingly mounted in a slot of the plate I28, and the spring I48, is seated against the lower end of the slot where it is com pressed by theplunger. To hold the spring I48 junderlcompression, the upper end'of the plunger 'bears'against an abutment pin [I50 in the plate I28 whilethe clamp plate is'in welt releasing position. When the clamp plate I20 is moved to "grip the'welt, the flange on the plate engages the upper end of the'plunger I46 and depresses itI Thereafter, upon rotation" of the clamp bythe welt, the slot I44 moves into alinement with the plunger I46 to'latch the clamp plate and restrain it in rotated position, thus preventing further' rotation of the clamp' plate with the welt and further retraction of the severed end of the welt from the work support. As soon as the clamp plate is moved to release the welt, the plunger I46, which remains stationary against the abutment pi n, is withdrawn from'the slot' I44, thus enabling the clamp plate-and carrier to be returned to; their starting positions without retractingthe welt.' j

Toractuate the welt clampinto gripping rela tioniwith the Welt, the lower end of the clamp is perforated to receive the reduced end of one arm on .a lever I52 fulcrumed onia pivot 'I54 secured bylugs projecting'downwardly from the carrier I26. Another arm of the lever I52 projectsup- Wardly toward the axis of the shaft I21 and is engaged by a compression spring I56 carried within a perforationat the rearward headed end of the shaft I2'I. Also engaging the'upwardly ex tending arm of lever I52 is a ball shaped portion on an arm, I58 fulorumed'on a' studi'screwlfid threadedin the bracket I30. The points of en-- gagement between jthe .ball portion for the arm I58 and the arm on the lever I 2'are substantially concentrichwith the center of shaft I21 .about which the carrier I26 rotates so that the 45 'position'of theclarnp ontheweltis not changed during rotation of 'thec'arrier. The 'arm"I58 is engaged by the for'war'diend of 'a' rod'I62 the rearward end of which is pivotally'connected to an arm I64f(see Fig. 3) of the'driving and stoppingmechanismfi When the driving and-stopping mechanism is actuated at the end of a se m, the arm I64 is given a forward movementand is latched in it's'forward positionin' a manner explained more fully in the'patent to Ashworth and Whitaker above identified. During this forward movement,.the rod I62 presses the arm I58 which, in turn, rocks the lever I52 and slides the welt clamp plate I downwardly against the welt. This operation occurs in the final sewing cycle of the machine at the same time that the presser root is unlocked and raised from engagement with the shoe to release the shoe. The clamp'plate thus prevents the welt from being withdrawn from the machine except to the extent required in carrying the cut inthe welt past the sewing point. After being severed," the cut end of the welt is held by the clamp plate in the position of Figs 26 and 2'? to be engaged by the stitch forming devices in starting a new seam.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and a particular embodiment having been described, what is claimed is: V

1. In a sewing machine'for use in'the manufacture of shoes, the "combination with stitch forming devices acting'to secure a-welt pr ogressivelyt'o a shoe, and a welt guide for directing the welt into a position on theputturned shoe upper'in advance of the sewing point, of a -knife 5 constructed and mounted for operation between thewelt guide and pointoffoperatio n of the stitch'forming devices on that portionof the welt in actual contact with'the shoe, v 2. In a sewing ,Inachineforuse'in'the manu facture of shoes, the combination with stitch forming devices acting to secures. welt progressively to a shoe, and a welt guide for directing the welt into a positionflon the 'outturned shoe upper in advance ofthe sewing po-intjof a'lmife 15 constructed and mounted for operation on'that (portion of the welt in actual contact with the shoe at a location a fraction of a stitch length ahead of'the sewing point. 3 3. In sewing machine for'juse in the'manufacture of shoes of the stitchdown type, the com-' bination with stitch forming devices acting to secure a welt progressively to the outturned upper and projecting sole margin of ashoe, and a welt guide for directing the welt into a position on the outturned shoe upper inladvance of-the'sewing point, of a knife' constructed and mounted for operation on that'portion of the'welt in sewing position c'ontactingwiththeshoe to; cut the welt against the substance of the shoe upper as a cutting block. I

4. In a sewing machinefor use in the manu- 'facture of shoes of the stitchd'own type, the com bination with stitch forming devices acting to 5 secure a'welt progressively to the outturned upper 3 and projecting sole margin of ashoe, and a'welt guide for directing the welt to a position on the 'outturned shoe upper through a bend at :the point or contact with the upper, of'an elongated knife 40 constructedwith a sharpened edge at the 'end nearestthe shoe and slidingly mounted in the Well; guide for operation against the welt along the bend at the point of contact of theweltwith the upper.'

5. In a sewing machine for use inthemanufacture of shoes of the stitchdown type, the com vbination with'stitch forming devices acting to seeure a welt progresssively to the outturned upper and projecting sole ina rginof a shoe, and a, welt guide disposed at an angle to'the outturned surf ace of the shoe upper operated upon to form a bend in the welt as it comes into contact with the .uppenof anelongated knife constructed with a sharpened edge at the end nearest the shoe and mounted to cut the welt along the bend against the substance of theupperasa cuttmg block In a sewingmachine for use in the manufacture of shoes of the stitchdown type, the combination with stitch forming devices; acting to secure a-welt progressively to the outturned upper and projecting sole margin of a shoe ar welt guide disposed at an angle to theoutturnedsum face of the shoe upper operated uponto form a bend in the weltat the point ofcontact with the upper, of a knife mounted tocut the welt along the bend, and. driving and stopping mechanism actingrwhen thrown into operationduring sewing, to cause the :knife to cut .-:the jwelt less A than a'stitch lengthfrom; thesewing point. and then to bring thegma'chineto, rest after the-succeeding-stitchhas beeninserted. 1 Inla sewing machine for 'use the manufacture of shoesof the stitchdown type, the com;- bination'with; stitch forming devicesacting. to se- 7 \cure a :welt progressively :to. the outturned upper and projecting sole margin of a shoe, awelt guide disposed at an angle to the outturned surface of the shoe upper operated upon to form a bend in the welt at the point of contact with the upper, of a knife mounted to cut the welt along the bend without separating the "ends completely, welt clamping means for gripping the welt to prevent its withdrawal with the shoe from the machine when the machine is brought to rest, and a driving and stopping mechanism acting, when thrown into operation during sewing, to cause theknife to out the welt and the welt clamping means to grip the welt.

8. In a, machine for use in attaching welt to a work piece, the combination with devices acting to secure the welt progressively to the work piece, and a Welt guide for directing the welt into position on the work piecein advance of the attaching point, of a knife constructed and mounted. to out the welt at the end of the securing operation without separating the ends completely, and yieldable welt clamping means. for gripping the welt to limit the amount of welt withdrawn from the machine when brought to: rest to a length required in carrying the cut section of the Walt past the point of operation of the securing devices. 9, In a machine for use in attaching welt to a work piece, the combination withdevices actin to'secure the welt progressively to the work piece, and a welt guide for directing the welt into position on the work piece in advance of the attaching point, of a knife mounted to cut the welt without separating the ends completely, welt clamping means, and a driving and stopping mechanism for the machine acting, when thrown into operation, to cause the knife to cut the weit and the welt clamping means to limit the amount of welt withdrawn from the machine to the length required in carrying the cut section of welt past the point of operation of the securing de- I0. In a sewing machine for use in the manufacture of shoes, the combination with stitch facture of shoes; the combination with stitch forming devices actingto secure a welt progrcs sively to a shoe, a welt guide, and welt clamping means, of a knife mounted to cut the welt extending from the welt guide, and driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation during sewing-to cause the knife to cut the -welt,to continue the operation of the stitch forming devices thereafter until a stitch connecting the endsof the welt on the shoe has been inserted, to actuate the welt clamping means into gripping relation with the welt after the stitch forming devices have inserted the final stitch, and then to bring the machine to restwith forming devices acting to secure a welt progressiv'ely to ashoe, a welt guide, of a knife mounted to'forrna bevel cut in the welt extending from the guide, and driving and stopping mechanism acting when throwninto operation during sewing to cause the knife to cut the welt and then 5 a cause the stitch forming devices to insert a stitch intersecting the bevel cut in the welt.

11. In 'asewing machine for use in the manufacture of shoes, the combination with stitch forming devices acting to secure 'awelt progressively to a shoe, a welt guide,of means severing thewelt at the end of aseam and for locating the end of the welt remaining in the guide at a position where it will be engaged'by the stitch prising aknifemounted .to form a cut in the welt extending from the guide without severing forming devices at the start of a new seam, comthe welt completely, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation during sewing to cause the knife to cut thewelt and then cause the stitch forming devices to insert a stitch connecting the final end of the welt on 'the shoe with the first end, and a welt clamp acting to limit the length of welt withdrawn while removing the shoe from the machine at the end ofa seam to that required in carrying the end of welt remaining in the machine past the point of operation ofthe stitch' forming devices and to cause the welt to be severed by the pull exerted during continued removal of the shoe. p

12. In a sewing machine for use in the-mann the stitch forming devices in stopping positions.

13. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices, of a guidefor directing a welt into position on the work in advance of the sewing point, a guide roll from which the welt passes to the welt guide, acarri'er rotatable about the center of "the guide roll, a clamp on the carrier for gripping the welt onthe guide roll to cause the carrier and "clamp to be rotated when welt is withdrawn with the work from the machine at theendofa seam, a stop-for limiting rotation of the carrier while'the clampgrips the welt, yielding means for returning the car rier to its starting position, anda latch forpre venting return of the carrier to its startingpdsition except aftertheclamp releases the welt.

14. In a sewingmachine, the combination with stitch forming devices,of a guide for directing a welt into position on the work in advance of the sewing point, a guide roll from whichthe welt passes to the welt guide, a carrier rotatable about the center of the guide roll, aclamp on the carrier movable diametrically of the guide roll for gripping the welt on the guide rollto cause the car'rierand clamp to be rotated when welt is withdrawn from the machine, a stop for limiting rotation of the carrier when the'clamp grips the welt, yielding means for returning the carrier to its starting position, and a latch actu ated yieldingly away from the center of the roll and arranged for engagement with the clamp while gripping the welt to'prevent'returnof the carrier to its starting'position and to be disengaged from the clamp-while the clamp is releasing the Welt.

15. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices, of a guidefordirecting a welt into position on the work in advance of the sewing point, a guide roll from which the welt passes to the welt guide, a carrier rotatable about thecenter of the guide roll, a clamp on the car'- rier movable diametrically of the guide roll for gripping the welt on the guide roll to'eause the carrier and clamp tobe rotated when welt is withdrawn fromjthe machine, a stop for limiting rotation of the carrier when the-clampgrips the welt, yielding rneans for returning the car rier to its starting position, a latch actuated yieldingly away from the center of the roll and arranged for engagement with the clamp while iforming devices'pof 'a knife constructed and mounted to cut the welt without severing the ends completely, and yieldable welt clamping means forgripping the welt to limit the amount of welt withdrawn from the machine when brought to rest, to a length required for carrying the cut section of the welt past the point of operation of th istitc fo sd 1'7; Ina sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices of a guide for directing a welt to a position-on the work in advance of the sewing point, a guide roll from which the welt passes to the welt guide, a bracket on which the guide roll is rotatable, a carrier rotatable on the bracket concentrically with the guide roll, a welt clampslidable on the carrier diametrically of the guide roll and provided 'witha flanged portion extending over the periphery of the guide roll, a-stop on the bracket for limiting rotation of the carrier and clamp with the welt while being gripped by the clamp, a spring for returning the carrier to starting position after the clamp is rotated with the welt, a sliding plunger on the bracket, a spring for actuating the plunger yieldingly against the flanged portion of the clamp while gripping the welt to latch the clamp in the position to which it is rotated by the welt, and an abutment on the bracket for the latch to restrain the latch when the clampis moved to release the welt..

18 In a machine for use in attaching welt to awork piece; the combination with devices acting to secure the welt progressively to the work piece, andawelt guide for directingthe welt into position on the work piece in advance of the attaching point, of a knife mounted to cut the welt in advance of the sewing point, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown inte operation during sewing to cause the knife to out the welt and then to bring the machine to rest, and means arranged to hold the knife inoperative to and stopping mechanism and the latch of the knife mechanism for releasing the knife mechanism from the latch when the driving and stopping mechanism is actuated to stop the machine.

21. In a machine for use in attaching welt to a work piece, the combination with devices acting to secure the welt progressively to the work piece, a welt guide for directing the welt into position on the work piece in advance of .the attaching point, and driving and stopping mechanism for bringing the machine to rest at the end of a seam, of a knife mounted to cut the welt in advance of the sewing point, mechanism for actuating the knife, a, latch for holding the knife'mechanism inoperative, connections between the driving and stopping mechanism and the latch of the knife mechanism for releasing the knife mechanism from the latch when the driving and stopping mechanism is actuated to stop the machine, and means rendered inoperative manually during sewing for disconnecting the latch from said connections.

22. In a sewing machine for use in attaching welt to a work piece, the combination with stitch forming devices, a sewing shaft for actuating the stitch forming devices and a welt guide for directing the welt into position on the work piece in advance of the sewing point, of a knife mounted to cut the welt in advance of the sewing point, and mechanism for actuating the knife, including a cam on the sewing shaft, a follower cooperating with the cam, a pivoted support on which the follower is movable, a latch on the suPPQ rtfor holding the follower out of engagement, with the cam, and means for disengaging the latch from the follower, including a manually operable member arranged to be actuated during sewing operations.

cut the welt when the driving and stopping mechanism' is actuated between the ends of a seam, including a member arranged for manual actuation during sewing to render the knife operative to cut the welt when the driving andstopping mechanism is actuated. r I l9. In a machine for use in attaching welt to a work piece, the combination with devices acting to secure the welt progressively to the work piece, awelt guide for directing the welt into position onthe work piece in advance of the-attaching point, and driving and stopping mechanism for bringing the machine to rest at the end of a seam, of a knife mounted to cut the welt in advance of the sewing point, normally inoperative mecha- .nism for actuating the knife including connections between the driving and stopping mechanism and the knife mechanism for setting the knife actuating mechanism -in operation, and means controlled manually during sewing for rendering the knife mechanism setting. connections effective or for holding them/ineffective when the driving and stopping mechanism is actuated. 7

20. In a machine for use in attaching welt to a work piece, the combination with devices acting to secure the welt progressively tothe work piece, a weltguide for directing the welt into position on the work piece in advance of the attaching point, and driving and stopping mechanism for bringing, the machine to rest at the end of a seam, of a knife mounted to "cut the welt in advance of the sewing point, mechanism for actuating the knife, a latch for holding the knife mechanism inoperative, and connections between the driving 23. In a sewing machine for use in attaching welt to a work piece;'the combination with stitch forming devices, a sewing shaft for actuating the stitch forming devices and a welt guide for directing the welt into position on the work piece in advance of the sewing point, of a knife mounted to cut the welt in advance of the sewing point, mechanism for actuating the knife, includingla cam on the sewing shaft, and a follower coop? erating with the cam, a latch for holding the follow'er away from the cam, connections between the driving and stoppin mechanism and the latch, comprising a hook member for actuating the latch away from the follower, and amanually actuated latch for holding the hook member away from the follower holding latch arranged when actuated to cause the hook member to engage the follower holding latch. 5

24. In. a sewing machine for use in attaching welt to a work piece, the combinationwith stitch forming devices, a sewing shaft for actuating the sitch forming devices and a welt guide for directing the welt into position on the work piece in advance of the sewing point, of a knife mounted to cut the welt in advance of the sewing point, mechanism for actuating the knife, includin a cam on the sewing shaft, and a follower cooperating with the cam, a latch forpreventing more than one operation of the follower and for holding the follower away from the cam, connectionsbetween the driving and stopping mechanism and the latch, including a hook member arranged when actuated first to release the follower from the latch and thereafter to become disconnected from the latch, and a manually operable latch for releasably holding the hook member in'disconnected position. s

25. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices and a guide for directing a welt to the work operated upon in advance of the sewing point, of a knife mounted for operation on a portion of the welt while in sewing position on the work, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation during sewing to cause the knife to cut the welt and then to bring the machine to rest after a stitch has been inserted passing through the welt at the side of the cut nearest the welt guide, and welt clamping means acting when the work is withdrawn from the machine to cause the end of welt extending from the welt guide to be separated from the work.

26. In a sewing machine for use in the manufacture of shoes of the stitchdown type, the combination with stitch froming devices and a guide for directing a welt into a position'on the outturned upper of a shoe in advance of the sewing point, of a knife mounted for operation upon a portion of the welt while in sewing position on the shoe upper, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation during sewing to cause the knife to cut the welt and then to bring the machine to rest after a final stitch in the seam has been inserted passin through the welt at the side of the cut nearest the welt guide, and welt clamping means acting when the shoe is withdrawn from the machine to cause the welt extending from the welt guide to be torn loose from the final stitch.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices and a guide for directing a, welt to the work operated upon in advance of the sewing point, of a knife mounted for operation upon a portion of the welt while in sewing position on the work to form a bevel cut in the welt, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation during sewing to cause the knife to cut the welt and then to bring the machine to rest after a final stitch in the seam has been inserted passing through the bevel surfaces of the welt at either side of the cut, and

welt clampin means acting when'the work is withdrawn from the machine to cause the bevel cut in the end of the welt extending from the welt guide to be torn loose from the final stitch.

28. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices acting to secure a welt progressively to a work piece, a welt guide, of a knife mounted to cut the welt, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation during sewing to cause the knife to cut the welt and then to cause the stitch forming devices to insert a stitch, and means for preventing the knife from being actuated before the next to last stitch is completed.

29. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices acting to secure a welt progressively to a work piece, a welt guide, a knife mounted to cut the welt, mechanism for actuating the knife, driving and stopping mechanism for bringing the stitch forming devices to rest at the end of a seam, comprising a vibrating lever, a spring-pressed lock bolt movable toward and from the vibrating lever to throw the driving and stopping mechanism into operation, and a control rod for withdrawing the lock bolt from the vibrating lever, of connections between the knife actuatin mechanism and the lock bolt for causing the knife to be actuated when the lock bolt engages the vibrating lever.

30. In a sewing machine, the combination with I stitch forming devices acting to secure a welt progressively to a work piece, a welt guidega knife mounted to cut the welt, mechanism for actuating the knife, driving and stopping mechanism for bringing the stitch forming devices to rest at the end of a seam, comprising a vibrating lever, a spring-pressed lock bolt movable toward and from the vibrating lever to throw the driving and stopping mechanism into operation, and a control rod for withdrawing the lock bolt from the vibrating lever, of connections between the knife actuating mechanism and the lock bolt for causing the knife to be actuated when the lock bolt engages the vibrating lever, and a finger for preventing the lock bolt from engaging the vibrating lever before the next to last stitch in a seam is inserted.

31. In a sewing machine for use in attaching a welt to a work piece, the combination with stitch forming devices, a sewing shaft for actuating the stitch forming devices, a welt guide for directing the welt into position on the work piece in advance of the sewing point, and driving and stopping mechanism including a lock bolt and treadle controlled lock bolt actuating connections for bringing the machine to rest at the end of a seam, of a knife mounted to cut the welt in advance of the sewing point, normally inoperative mechanism driven from the sewing shaft for actuating the knife, and connections between the treadle controlled connections and the knife actuating mechanism, for setting the knife mechanism in readiness for operation by the sewing shaft before the machine is brought to rest.

32. In a sewing machine for use in attaching a welt to a work piece, the combination with stitch forming devices, a sewing shaft for actuating the stitch forming devices, a welt guide for directing the welt into position on the work piece in advance of the sewing point, and driving and stopping mechanism for bringing the machine to rest at the end of a seam, including a vibrating lever, a bolt acting when released to lock the vibrating lever, and treadle controlled lock bolt actuating connections, of a knife mounted to cut the welt in advance of the sewing point, normally inoperative mechanism driven from the sewing shaft for actuating the knife, and connections between the lock bolt connections and the knife actuat ng mechanism, for setting the knife mechanism in readiness for operation when the lock bolt engages the vibrating lever.

33. In a sewing machine for use in the manufacture of shoes, the combination with stitch forming devices acting to secure a welt'progressively to a shoe, a welt guide, of a knife mounted to cut across the welt, and driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation during sewing to cause the knife to cut the welt and then cause the stitch forming devices to insert a stitch intersecting the cut in the welt.

FRED ASHWORTH. 

